The Basics of Bra Making

All the time I hear people who are shocked to hear that you can make your own bras, and when I tell them that it's not that difficult, they don't believe me! So here goes... This is by no means a tutorial, but rather a rough guide to how a bra is put together. Firstly I suggest you get a pattern that you think is about the correct size. Think about your favourite RTW bra, and examine it after reading through some pattern descriptions. You would be surprised what it is that makes it your favourite. I chose mine because I hate the feeling of a band low down. My favourite RTW bra had no elastic under the cups, a partial band bra. Other bras are put together differently, but it will give you an idea of what's involved. Next trace your pattern, and cut out your pieces, paying particular attention to the direction of the stretch...this really does matter! I use pins to hold the fabric, and a small rotary cutter to cut the main parts, using scissors to snip any remaining bits that I couldn't do with the rotary cutter. Next, if I am adding lace I do that now, there is a knack to getting the two sides mirrors images of each other, but that's for another day. Next, you sew the top cup to the bottom, or sides together or however many parts your cup is in, they vary. Do follow the picture and notches, these don't go together how you might think they do. I know, I have to double check every time. I tend open the seam and top-stitch both sides separately, I feel it gives a smoother finish, but there are lots of ways of finishing this seam. You sew the bridge together next, this must have no stretch from side to side. I use three layers, two of fabric and one of nylon sheer. I hate the nylon sheer rubbing, one of my pet hates about some of the RTW bras I have had in the past. With 3 layers, I have the nylon sheer in the middle, with lycra next to my skin. With this bra, I used lace as the outside layer. With my pattern, you sew on the straps, mine are made of the same fabric as the cups. Next you sew the bridge in between the two cups. Then you attach the elastic to the bottom of the two parts of the back band. You do this by using a zig-zag on the right side of the fabric, and then turning it under, and using a 3-stage zigzag. There is a plush side on this elastic to stop it from rubbing. I have found that using a wider, (15mm) plush elastic, suits better.

Next you sew the back bands to the outsides of the cups.

Now you sew the casing onto the seam allowance of the cups, this is tricky and you need to take your time and be precise, and follow the pattern instructions. In the picture, the right hand side is sewn on with a wire in it, and the left hand side is partially sewn.

After this you sew on the elastic that goes along the back bands, all the way up along the underarm, and up the straps (or not up the straps, depending on the pattern). Again, this is done by sewing the plush elastic on the right side and fipping it to the wrong side and sewing again.

And around now you also put the finishing elastic on the top edge of the cups and up the straps, if they are fabric. I like the look of Fold-over elastic, I think it gives a nice smooth finish, but you can use other elastics too. You can see the finised edge in the final photos, I must have forgotten to take one!

Next you sew on the strap elastic to the band and again there are various ways to do this, but I have made a couple of alterations to my pattern, and this is how I like to attach mine now.

After this is on, you sew on the hooks and eyes, using a zipper foot. I usually go over it a couple of times...wouldn't want it to come apart!

Finally, finish the straps according to your pattern. Recently I have been making fabric straps, but find that they are too stretchy, even with elastic on the two sides, so I have sewn some strap elastic over them, and it gives a nice broad, but firm strap. They are very comfortable. The strap elastic is sea-green on this bra.

The lace at the centre is not quite as exact as I'd have liked, and one cup is slightly high at the top, on one side......I think it'll pass muster though!

And for those of you who wonder how it fits.....I apologise in advance if you weren't wondering!!!!

I am sorry for the poor lighting in the photos, and for the scribbled out last photo, but like I say, it's more of a rough guide, and just to show you that they REALLY are NOT that difficult!

BTW....I am still working on the wrinkles across the centre seam. I am still tweaking the pattern.

Oh yes and a back shot....do you know how diffucult it is to photograph you own back! I will follow this post up with some websites and links to other blogs that are way more knowledgeable than me. A lot of them have in depth tutorials of how to make a bra. It will take time though!


Edited to add....The fabric which I am using for this bra is extremely strong, unusually strong, normally the bottom cup of the bra would be lined with something non-stretch., and the back band would need powernet to make it stronger. Sorry, I'm quite spoiled with this fabric.